Beer in Colonial America
The native peoples of North and South America
brewed their own fermented beverages from local ingredients
ranging from such things as maize to spruce tips to agave sap.
However, when Europeans arrived in America, they brought with
them their knowledge of brewing beer from barley. Although
America's virgin waterways were not yet polluted, the deeply
ingrained European fear of drinking water forced the colonists -
and, in fact, all sailors - to bring beer with them on their
trans-Atlantic voyages. From a first-hand account of the
Pilgrims' voyage to America in 1620, we now know that the
Mayflower was forced to land at Plymouth Rock rather than their
planned destination of the Hudson River Bay because their
supplies, and primarily their beer, were running short.
Therefore, beer was an extremely important part of life
in the New World from the very start.
After food and shelter were established, one of
the very next issues settlers invariably addressed was their
dwindling beer supply. At a time and in a place when food was in
short supply and water was feared, the belief that beer was
beneficial to one's health was a fundamental tenet of colonial
culture, so a brewery was always one of the first structures
erected in a new settlement. Beer was brewed in America by
English settlers of Virginia as early as 1584. Historians
generally agree that the Dutch settlers of New Amsterdam
(present-day Manhattan Island) built America's first brewery in
1612. The Pilgrims erected a make-shift brewery in the winter of
1620 - their very first winter in America - even though their
overall survival was less than certain. However, the earliest
American settlers did not attempt to cultivate their own barley
in America but rather relied upon imported European beer and
brewing supplies.
Just as they were the first to establish a
brewery in America, the Dutch were the first to successfully
cultivate barley in America. However, the American settlers'
demand for beer surpassed the yield attainable from domestic
grain supplies and wild hops, so the colonists continued to
import European beer and brewing supplies in high quantities.
However, deliveries from Europe were expensive and infrequent,
so the colonists were inevitably forced to consider alternatives
to barley. Two of the most common barley substitutes were maize
- a brewing ingredient the colonists were introduced to by
Native Americans - and molasses. Maize was used by European
brewers to make beer as early as 1620. Colonial brewers also
experimented with spruce and even pumpkin. However, these
substitute brews were frequently of such a poor quality that the
colonial governments in the mid-1600's were actually forced to
enacted beer purity regulations - America's fist consumer
protection laws. Despite its rocky start, beer would soon play
an increasingly important role in colonial American life.
Pre-Revolutionary America (from the 17th to the
mid-18th century) enjoyed one of the highest beer consumption
rates in American history. Because of this, beer played no small
part in the evolution of America from a widely dispersed group
of small settlements dependent upon England for survival into a
network of self-reliant and independent colonies. As the
population increased, so did the need for beer as a key source
of nutrition and refreshment - the colonists continued to avoid
water at all costs. Americans still drank great quantities of
English beer at this time. However, as buying imported beer
became increasingly cost-prohibitive for most Americans, the
demand for locally brewed beer grew stronger. This meant the
need for new breweries, which required equipment and raw
materials to produce their beer. America's burgeoning brewing
industry in turn fostered the growth of local agriculture and
industry and further economic growth.
Needing a place to drink, relax and socialize
just as they did in Europe, the demand for beer forced the
opening of taverns and inns throughout the colonies. However,
colonial American taverns were not just places to drink beer.
Being the social center of any town, taverns were forums for
social and political discourse, which became increasingly
important as revolutionary sentiment grew throughout the
colonies. Angered over England's increasing taxation of and
indifference to the American colonies, colonists frequently
vented their frustrations in their local taverns. It is easy to
surmise that the seeds of revolution were planted over several
pints of ale in the local tavern. Taverns was often a town's
only meeting hall. Since courthouses generally did not exist,
taverns also doubled as courtrooms for judges traveling their
circuit throughout the colony. Merchants, and therefore economic
development, were more likely to reach an area of the country
with ample taverns and inns. In many poorer towns, taverns even
acted as the local church. Without over-emphasizing their place
in history, taverns played an extremely important role in the
early social and economic development of colonial American
society.
Beer continued to play a large role in America
as the Revolution turned from defiant rhetoric into open war.
Besides the British army, the only soldiers in America were the
colonial militias. However, the militiamen were farmers and
artisans with more important things to worry about than marching
and target practice. Knowing the importance of a well-trained
militia, colonial governments were forced to bribe their
militiamen to come to training days with the promise of free
beer. When the Revolution began in earnest and the fledgling
American government needed to raise an army, the promise of beer
was once again used to recruit volunteers. Historians have many
letters from General Washington to the Continental Congress
expressing his desire that his troops be given their daily
ration of beer. Persuaded by General Washington, the Continental
Congress delivered as promised - beer was one of the primary
rations of soldiers in the Continental Army.
Because of the pervasive nature of beer in
colonial society, several of America's leading revolutionaries
were involved in the brewing industry themselves. Boston's
Samuel Adams, the cousin of co-revolutionary and future
president John Adams, was a maltster. George Washington and
Thomas Jefferson were noted homebrewers. Beer was also a leading
consideration when it came time for the colonies' leading
revolutionaries to meet and decide the fate of their new
country. Philadelphia - colonial America's brewing capital - was
chosen twice by the delegates to the Continental Congress as the
site of their deliberations. After the Revolution, Philadelphia
was chosen a third time to host the Constitutional Convention.
It is well documented in historical writings that many
behind-the-scenes deals and compromises were struck in
Philadelphia's taverns after debate had formally ended for the
day. Washington's personal notes reflect that on the last day of
their meetings, after the Constitution had been finally drafted,
the delegates adjourned to none other than Philadelphia's City
Tavern - still inexistence today.
At the end of the Revolutionary War, beer's
place in American society was firmly entrenched. Many Americans
had a difficult time giving up their old habits, so English beer
was still imported. However, the majority of Americans now
purchased their beer from local brewers. In fact, George
Washington - known for his love of porter - proudly boasted that
he only purchased his porter from American brewers, specifically
one in Philadelphia. During this time America's larger breweries
were evolving from local into regional concerns, and Americas'
first national brewery was born under Matthew Vassar - the
benefactor and namesake of the preeminent women's college.
While
Philadelphia, New York and Boston remained the centers of
America's brewing industry, as Americans moved west, so did the
brewers. Breweries continued to make beer and Americans
continued to drink it. Breweries even popped up in America's
frontier cities, like Pittsburgh and Cincinnati. America's
westward expansion at the beginning of the 19th century
coincided with a large influx of German immigrants into America.
This emigration set the stage for one of the most monumental
changes in the American brewing industry - the introduction of
lager to America.